I can’t sleep.
This is something that I’ve been struggling with frequently as of late. Growing up, I was often surrounded by friends who dealt with similar issues; and within the privacy of my own head, I’d make hasty / passive remarks about their symptoms:
“Insomnia? Not a real problem. If they really wanted to sleep, they would. Sounds made up.”
Life doled out a heavy dose of karmic justice right before my 28th birthday; and it did so, by sucker punching me straight into the depths of humility. There was no time for me to transition, and certainly no grace period.
Over the past few months, I’ve come to accept that one’s inability to sleep may have nothing to do with their desire for it (or lack thereof). Sometimes, I crave sleep more than all of the basics combined —safety, food, water….Love.
Dry eyes, racing thoughts, and maddening hunger – these are my constant companions into the late hours of the morning. Hunger – not for food – but for a sweet release that lingers just beyond my reach.
I am a problem solver at my core, and my solutions were…Creative at the start:
- I inhaled allergy medication (despite having no allergies to speak of).
- NyQuil became a part of my bedtime routine (despite no sniffles).
- Melatonin dosages were tripled (to no avail).
My path to hell was poorly constructed with over-the-counter medication.
I’m not a particularly gifted chemist; so it should come as no surprise that Satan often sent me back to no man’s land.
Instead of following the linear path there; I, of course, took a detour to the South of Spain this year.

I wasn’t here for an extensive period of time (roughly two weeks), but I did manage to cover a fair bit of ground.
Here’s a Cole’s notes version of my itinerary for those of you that’ve been following my endless edits on Vsco over the last few months:
Barcelona
Girona (Girona, Pertallada, & Costa Brava)
Seville
Granada
Spain was kind to me – as I imagine the cool aunt might be kind to you at an otherwise insufferable family reunion. Her home is offered to you as a safe haven, one that’s free from any/all signs of pretence.
Comparatively; when I was in Switzerland a few years ago, the experience reminded me of being in the company of an organised, compulsive, and aesthetically sensitive friend. Beautiful; yet, somewhat constrained, slightly unreachable, bound by unseen rules – the counterpart to Spain.
Worth mentioning that both countries are stunning in their own right – just wildly different from one another (imagine a maximalist vs a minimalist).
I only bring this up because apart from Spain, Switzerland was the last country in Europe where I travelled solo (Ireland and Scotland don’t count, I was wedding bound).

I started my trip, as I often do: By getting a rough feel for the bare bones of the city (architecture, history, art). I’m happy to report that I was not pick pocketed during my time in Barcelona (despite endless warnings from the internet). I wasn’t particularly careful / vigilant either (am I ever?) Perhaps my luck played a part here, or maybe the internet was being slightly dramatic – the truth is likely somewhere in the middle.
The middle – it’s an awful space to occupy (much like no man’s land). One has to wonder what’s worse – the middle (stasis), or the other end of the spectrum (“unknown / potential failure”)?
And who better to answer these questions than the late Gaudi, the man whose infamous Casa Milà (La Pedrera) kicked off his cancellation era back in 1912. The critics really went to town on our friend, below you’ll find some of my favourite comments inspired by his creation:
- “The rounded hollows of the façade have been turned into dark holes through which all manner of creatures crawl in and out: not only crocodiles and rats, but also snakes, hedgehogs, owls, sea monsters...” as aptly described by Juan José Lahuerta
- “Apartment for rent and it’s not bad for selling cod after Carnival season…”

Kinda rough, right? Even worse was his untimely death (hit by a tram, unrecognised by civilians – with his last words being: “My God! My God!”) What a way to go out.
And yet, this was the same man who created:

and this:

and this:

You get the gist, right?
Our ability to build people up, and to subsequently break them down, fascinates me – it always has. Ted Bundy was a saint, until he wasn’t. Mom and dad were your saviours – until you took a jackhammer to their pedestals. You were a background character in my story – until you weren’t.
A part of me feels like you and I are – at all times, juggling multiple fluctuating perceptions as we ride our unicycles through the stratosphere. We’re amateur jugglers at best; and we are not immune from face planting on the cold hard pavement (in fact, we often do).
One such accident is exactly what led me to Barcelona in the first place, and I’m so glad that it did.
Just as disenchantment began seeping deeply into this jester’s bones, fate and happenstance renewed my faith in the unknown (by placing new friends in my path during a day trip to Girona).

I bumped into three lovely ladies at a restaurant in Costa Brava.
Together, we shared much needed laughter around the lunch table, and we exchanged sordid tales about being single 20 / 30 somethings in busy metropolitan areas – where the idea of true love often feels like a faraway dream, rather than something tangible or concrete.
We didn't dwell on this fact for too long, as there were pictures to be taken, beautiful folks to chat with, and Xuixos to devour. Our time at lunch flew by, and the coast was relatively quiet (with gentle crashing waves provided much needed white noise).

The rest of our time together was spent: Wandering down cobblestoned alleyways, climbing clock towers, and visiting endless Game of Thrones monuments.
I had a 9 AM train ride to Seville scheduled for the very next morning. My Toronto pals needed to catch their 6 AM bus to Valencia – and my California pal was scheduled to attend a business conference at 8 AM.
That certainly didn’t stop us from reconnecting for dinner during our last night in Barcelona, or from staying out until nearly one o’clock in the morning. We took a million shaky polaroids together, we laughed at the silliest things (that I cannot remember now) – and we ultimately bid each other goodbye.
It was bittersweet at the time.

The next morning, I was off to Seville (half asleep); a gorgeous sunny day accompanied me in transit.
For the first thirty minutes of my journey, I silently 'ooh-ed' and 'ah-ed' at the rolling hills, and lush greenery (these things aren’t new to me, but I don’t think I’ll ever stop being awestruck, even when I’m 85). The rest of my time was spent snoring with my mouth wide open—highly ungraceful, but deeply satisfying.

Once I got to Seville, I had a Flamenco show to catch – and hardly thirty minutes to get there, so I made a dash for it.
This Flamenco show took place at La Casa Del Flamenco – a beautiful, intimate venue.
For those that may not be familiar with it: Flamenco is a spiritual rhythmic dance; one that gathers influences from Andalusia’s Roma, Arabic, and Jewish populations. A large part of the performance leans on improvisation and chemistry. I found myself briefly suspended over my version of reality as I observed these incredibly talented artists. Their ability to effectively emote (grief, loss, pain, ecstasy) through their movements, alongside their intense facial expressions, rendered me (nearly) speechless.
As the performance came to a close, I remember distinctly thinking:
“The space that I briefly occupied while observing this group may be as real as it gets. Perhaps all of life is a mission to return to this (fleeting / magical / unseizable) sweet spot.”

You may assume, walking into a Flamenco show – that the dancers take their queues from the guitar players; thus, following the rhythm of the music. But this isn’t the case – the guitar players observe the Flamenco dancers, and set the pace of their music accordingly (see the improvisation bit kicking in here?)
Can you imagine how much unspoken dialogue must take place on that stage for a performance to flow smoothly? Can you feel the weight of those unspoken words, lodged deeply in your throat?
I can’t (then again, when have I ever left anything unspoken? It’s all here, in between the spaces).

I spent the rest of my evening walking around Seville aimlessly, there was no plan – really (shocker).
I did a bit of window shopping (no I didn’t, money was spent), and I grabbed a quick bite at Dona Rufina before calling it a night.

Cafe Hercules was my first stop in the morning. Upon my arrival; I was greeted by a glass of freshly squeezed orange juice, warm toast, strong coffee, and silence.
The silence was my saving grace.
It was 8 AM, just early enough to avoid the crowds – and to gather my thoughts in peace. If you intend on paying this place a visit (which I strongly recommend, for a traditional Sevillano breakfast); you may also benefit from getting an early start. Otherwise, you run the risk of encountering swarms of people (and maybe that’s your thing, in which case – please disregard this altogether).
The perks of being early (anywhere / for anything):
- You’ll likely get the window spot (best suited for people watching).
- You’ll create spaces for your thoughts (which may be a plus or a minus depending on who you are).
- Your food will taste better (it’s science).
- You may have an easier time committing the moment to memory.

I’m glad that I savoured my moments of peace, because the rest of my day was spent navigating the social butterfly that is Seville, in all its extroverted glory.
I find myself torn here.
I can craft endless passages dedicated to The Royal Alcazar of Seville, or Plaza de España. I may break out my thesaurus, and scour its pages for all the flowery words fit to describe Seville’s stunning architecture – but I’m not going to do that.
Instead – let me show you:


Just kidding.
Seville happened to be the city where my camera’s SD card called it quits. I had to resort to using my phone’s (okay-ish) camera for much of the day. It’s not the phone’s fault, it’s me – I’m careless, and I stubbornly refuse any / all protective casing.
It may come as no surprise, then, that my phone often falls victim to my ire and chaos.
But that’s neither here nor there.
And what’s life without a little chaos, anyway?
You need to look no further than the Royal Alcazar of Seville to see this idea personified (beautifully, might I add). This Unesco World Heritage site is home to multiple architectural elements – all of which coexist in the same space (somehow it works). Don’t believe me?
In the Alcazar (which was originally a moorish fort), you’ll find:
- Gothic Elements
- Mudéjar Styles
- Renaissance Influences
- Baroque Additions
- Moorish influences
- Romanesque Influences (although, less prominent than those noted above).
Isn’t it kind of wild that all of these (strikingly) different aesthetic approaches can blend together to create something so beautifully unique (whilst remaining true to their origins all the same?) I often wonder what it may be like to forge a bond similar to this; it’s awfully easy to lose yourself in others if you aren’t careful – and yet, lose yourself you must if you want to create something interesting (in my opinion).
So, how do you strike that balance?
I suppose (like most things in life) the concept is easier to theorise, and trickier to execute (but it’s not like this castle was built in a day, right?)

My favourite part of the whole tour was the ending (I don’t mean this in a snarky way!)
The Royal Alcazar’s beautiful gardens (which seemed to go on forever) were simply breathtaking; frankly speaking, I may have spent my entire day photographing the flowers alone (if my SD card allowed this).
My tour came to a wrap within one of these gardens; and as I sat in a small cafe (gathering my belongings, and sipping on much needed espresso) – a flash of blue caught the corner of my eye.

It was none other than our friend here, who marched up to my table like a bird on a mission. There was no fear in his eyes (and why should there have been? I was a guest in his home, not the other way around). Upon approaching my table, my pal paused – craning his head left, right, and centre gracefully; meanwhile, I did my level best to remain calm, as I begged my camera to do its thing.
And it did.
This peacock kept me company for a while, before folks started coming around with their cameras (and less than subtle approaches). That was his queue to leave.

It was also my queue to leave.
I was -supposed- to take a small nap before venturing out again. My body initiated a factory reset instead (as it often does); and I knocked out for pretty much….The remainder of my time here.
That was Seville: Short, sweet, chaotic, slightly overwhelming, and unbelievably stunning.
And then came, Granada.

Granada, Granada, Granada.
“This place is magic!” Exclaimed Hector as we climbed our way up an incredibly steep hill on our way to Sacromonte. It’s funny, the way that excellent company can make you forget all about the horrors.
“My friends are all musicians, and sometimes the girls – they stay out until 2 in the morning, and they feel safe coming home by themselves. This place is as safe as it gets – and we have everything here: the mountains, the food, the parks…All the artists congregate here.”
Hector isn’t from Granada, he’s a San Fran dude through and through; but, he made a decision to move here a few years ago, and he committed to the bit. It’s something that I admire about him (in addition to his upbeat personality, and sparky energy).
The two hours I spent walking around with Hector on my first evening in Granada honestly felt more like ten minutes – this was a wonderful thing. Together, we explored Granada’s monuments and history; my favourite story was that of the mad queen – Juana La Loca (Juana The Mad).

Joanna held many important positions during her time in this world: The daughter of Queen Isabella I and King Ferdinand II, the heir presumptive to the crowns of Castile and Aragon, the woman who was madly (in love with ? in awe of? fixated on? obsessed with? something something) her husband, the Austrian archduke Philip The Handsome (no kidding, it’s literally in his name).
I know people often say that love is madness – but Joanna really drove this point home (she was physically kissing the man’s corpse, long after his departure from this world). Frankly – I find myself feeling slightly defensive over her, history wasn’t very kind to our dear Joanna (but is history ever kind to a ‘mad woman?’ The receipts state a resounding ‘no,’ your honour).
The battle for the crown between Joanna’s father, and her husband – ultimately ended with Joanna caught in the crossfire (shocker). Thus, a mad queen was born.
I’m not denying this (highly intelligent) woman’s battles with her mental health, I certainly wasn’t there to witness them – my time travelling machine has its limitations, after all. What I am saying, is this:
Here we have a young woman, with little exposure to the external world and men (dating isn’t exactly a thing), she gets married at the age of 16 to a man who is literally named – Philip The Handsome; during their marriage, Joanna gives birth to 6 children. This isn’t a perfect marriage, by any means – infidelity comes into play, Joanna chases Philip’s lover down with a pair of scissors, and she slashes said lover’s face in the process (good for her). She is constantly used as a political pawn between her father, and her husband – both of whom seem to have no qualms with confining Joanna, and locking her up (solitude is her only companion).
So – mad woman?
Or….Highly intelligent woman, born in the wrong place, at the wrong time, infatuated with the wrong man?
Who knows? I don’t.
Here’s what I do know: If Joanna was mad, then perhaps the rest of us ought to check our sanities at the door.

My second day in Granada started off with me in panic mode – I was running late to a cooking class, and I could not find the keys to my apartment (located in the Albaicin Quarter). I flipped the entire place upside down – only to discover the keys, still hanging on the door outside my apartment (I had forgotten to take them out the night before – super smart, super responsible).
Thank God for the safety Hector mentioned earlier, right?
When I finally made it to Nuria’s kitchen, I discovered another hurdle to cross: Nuria didn’t speak a word of English, I didn’t speak a word of Spanish – and yet, there we were, determined to embark on this baking adventure together.

Guided by Google translate, physical gestures, and sheer willpower – we made it work, the final product?
Something similar to this.
It was a lot of fun, to be honest with you. There’s something refreshing about decoding messages like a little detective (under certain conditions – ideally the person you’re decoding is physically in front of you, and said person directly acknowledges your line of communication). Nuria and I didn’t face any problems in this regard.
I digress.

As we sat together, chatting over tea, I asked Nuria for her recommendations (I had been on the hunt for a local spice shop, in the hopes of avoiding tourist traps). Immediately, Nuria pulled out a paper map; thus began fifteen minutes of circling, scribing, and enthusiastic gestures – it was adorable. As a result of my friend’s kindness, I found myself using a paper map to guide me after…God, I don’t even know how many years it had been.
Isn’t that kind of wild?
I was proud of myself for finding the spice shop on my first go (without getting lost along the way).

Azafran in Spanish, Zafran in Urdu, and Saffron in English – whatever you may prefer to call it, I found some (and I brought it home with me).
“But what about the Alhambra?”
“Did you see the Alhambra?”
“There’s so much history in the Alhamb-”
No, I didn’t. Okay? I’ll just cut to the chase and admit this right here, right now.
My silly brain didn’t book tickets in advance – I was willing to pay a ridiculous markup to get in; but even with that, I wasn’t able to secure tickets. And so – no, I didn’t see the Alhambra (unless the outside counts). Learn from my mistakes, book far far far in advance (we’re talking weeks here).

For those that have been with me for a while, you know this: Whenever I travel, I bring art home – this is a must for me. I was struggling to find paintings that resonated in Granada (there were plenty available, but none that clicked).
“That sounds just like dating in 2024,”
Indeed.
On my last day here, I came across this beautiful bookstore:

The bookstore itself was a nice surprise, of course – but that’s not what this story is about.
This story is about the second floor of this bookstore, where I found the painting that I had been on the hunt for my entire trip (an hour before my train was scheduled to depart for Barcelona).
César Eduardo Pigino is the artist behind the magic, and his portfolio is definitely worth looking at (I love his style + the attention to detail in his work).
We are almost 3500 words into this blogpost, folks.
I’m tempted to use the remainder of this space to share stories of my misadventures at the airport with you (where an officer asked me how I managed to get into Spain without getting my passport stamped – it was stamped, he just couldn’t see it for twenty five minutes – I missed my flight).
I won’t do that, though – because I think…
I think I’ve said all that I had to say. There’s always something left over, of course, something unspoken, something imagined – and that’s just the beauty of our conversations.
Often, I wonder if there will ever come a time when I don’t have any stories left in my system to share….It’s a frightening thought; after all, I am as attached to your company as you are to mine. Let us not end this on a frightening note; however, let’s set a promising tone instead: Perhaps, you and I are destined to be penpals until it is physically impossible for us to be penpals.
And maybe that’s okay.
Until next time; with love, from Spain.
Xo,
M